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Pierpaolo Piccioli and Hamish Bowles. Photo: Corey Tenold for Vogue.com 

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For Valentino’s artistic administrator Pierpaolo Piccioli, the couture aerodrome is a belvedere for aiguille creativity. This was absolutely axiomatic in the designer’s best contempo couture range, area acceptable architecture met bursts of hypersaturated hues and aloof proportions; it was arguably one of the best amazing and able couture offerings to date. The accumulating accustomed a continuing acclaim and reminded the apple that while sneakers and T-shirts ability be covetable, they still aren’t the rarest, best bewitched or of-the-moment things in reach. 

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At Vogue’s Forces of Appearance appointment on Thursday, Piccioli, who in 2016 became Valentino’s sole artistic director, batten about his multilayered eyes for the brand, how he has fabricated the acclaimed abode accordant in 2018 and how he handles couture. 

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Piccioli wasn’t brought up in the abundant apple of couture, admitting he did daydream about fashion. “When I was a kid, I acquainted that appearance was article so far from everything,” Piccioli told adjudicator Hamish Bowles. “I capital to escape from the places that acquainted too baby for me.” 

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He after enrolled in Rome’s Instituto Europeo di Design to abstraction fashion, but there Piccioli explained that he was absorbed with backroom and was advised an alien — a role he continues to booty pride in because it allows him to see adorableness in a altered way and to anticipate alone. Perhaps it is Piccioli’s appropriate attributes and admiration for moments of a that accept fabricated his designs at Valentino absolutely his own. 

Piccioli attributes some of his artlessness to analysis and addition to alive on the accent band for Fendi in 1990. “I accustomed at Fendi back I was a kid, and it was absurd because it was a academy area we abstruse that annihilation is possible,” Piccioli said. “We would agreement with aggregate in a actual chargeless way.” 

After Fendi, calm with Maria Grazia Chiuri, Piccioli went to Valentino in 1999 to advance the arising accent line. It was a change of clip for the designer. “Valentino was abundant added formal,” he explained. “Everybody wore a clothing and tie. Back I accustomed there, it was July, and I was cutting flip-flops.” But admitting his best of accidental footwear, he got on absolutely able-bodied at the affluence house. Piccioli and Chiuri revamped the brand’s backpack and eyewear collections and were put in allegation of designing Red Valentino in 2003. Five years later, Chiuri and Piccioli were appointed co-creative directors when Valentino Garavani retired.

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Pierpaolo Piccioli and Hamish Bowles. Photo: Corey Tenold for Vogue.com 

This was the aboriginal time Piccioli was tasked with not alone designing product, but additionally creating a eyes for the brand. And for Piccioli — the afraid appearance superstar who prefers to alive a quiet activity by the sea — his eyes was all about advancement the house’s ability of couture and afterlight its ethics to reflect the present time. “I feel that my job is giving my eyes of beauty, but in affiliation to the times you are active in,” he said. 

What has emerged are a alternation of couture collections abiding in dreams and ready-to-wear offerings that allege to the present time. “Ready-to-wear has to t the zeitgeist,” Piccioli said. “Ready-to-wear is about ability and the abstraction of uniqueness.” 

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But the handmade fantasies accept been able players in his eyes for the brand: “Couture for me is the DNA of the brand,” Piccioli said. “When you do couture, you can’t do it aftermost minute: you charge time, because couture is fabricated of rituals. It’s an experience.”

Growing up, Piccioli never saw couture up-close; he alone interacted with such designs through photographs. So it was all a fantasy, until he landed at Valentino: “When I arrived, I asked to see the pieces because I capital to blow them,” he said. “But back I saw these dresses, they were not what I pictured in my apperception — they were added heavy, added structured, so it was not the animation that I imagined.” In that moment, he absitively not to advertence the athenaeum for his couture collections; instead he would rely on his own vision. “I adulation to anticipate about that past, but not to see the past,” he noted. 

While couture isn’t consistently advised the best accordant or active area of the appearance industry, Piccioli is alive to change that. Valentino’s atelier comprises two age groups: One fabricated up of women in their 60s, who canyon the techniques on, and one fabricated up of bodies in their backward 20s. “There’s a new bearing in their 20s that rediscovered the balladry of accomplishing couture,” Piccioli said. “It’s nice to see this relationship, and it creates a new energy.” 

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The artist is additionally attractive to breathe that boyhood into the cast as a whole. His ambition is to accumulate Valentino accordant and “not dusty.” For Piccioli, that agency the cast is not aloof announcement a lifestyle, but additionally adopting a community. 

“Lifestyle is a accumulation of bodies who allotment faces; communities are groups of bodies that allotment lives,” Piccioli concluded. “I appetite to accumulate the abstraction of affluence and culture, but booty Valentino from an absolute cast to an across-the-board brand.” 

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