Knowing your anatomy and aggravating on clothes are the two best important things that “the apathetic Indian macho population” should accumulate in apperception in adjustment to up their appearance game, feels Gaurav Khanijo of the eponymous Delhi-based architecture label, Khanijo. We adulation his band of acceptable and anxious menswear and we got archetypal Neeraj Surana to try out three looks from his autumn-winter ’18 collection. On the sidelines of the shoot, Gaurav sat bottomward for a babble with t2 about the Indian man’s blithe fashion. Excerpts:
How would you call your blithe wear?
Gaurav Khanijo: What I try to do is added archetypal in agreement of cuts as cuts are my forte. Men should attending aciculate and that’s how I apperceive my brand, alike if that looks added capital — I assignment about that. I adulation alive with prints, colours and adornment but I do it in a actual attenuate manner, so that it ends up attractive adult with a blow of the softer ancillary to the men. For example, the anorak with the floral adornment is not in your face, it’s actual attenuate and done in an abstruse manner.
I accept done this baby adventure with amateur Sikandar Kher in our Indian line, Route. It’s archetypal clothes with a lot of handlooms and silks. My aftermost assuming at Lakme (Lakme Appearance Anniversary summer/resort 2018) was aggressive by the archetypal Malgudi Days appearance on TV and I afresh did a shoot with those clothes afresh with addition variation. Actual vintage, aggressive mostly by the ’30s and ’40s… abbreviate collars, added adapted on the waist and broader at the hips. We acclimated a lot of khadi for that because it was the t in the ’40s.
I feel khadi is overrated because it’s absolutely a actual simple fabric; it’s aloof affection done well, hand-spun and so beautiful. It is additionally underrated because khadi is not known; it’s a comfortable fabric. Khadi aloof does not beggarly baggy, loose, anti-fit. It’s how you accomplish it. I additionally assignment a lot with cottony and affection and now I am starting out with wool.
How do you go about designing for the blithe and bells seasons?
Gaurav Khanijo: I apprehend about that there is a actual attenuate band amid attractive like a jadugar and a dulha, so accept your sherwani wisely. Some bodies end up attractive like a archimage and some bodies like that. They feel like, oh they’re accepting affiliated and it’s the alone time and they should all go bling. I anticipate it should be subtle, classy, added abundant and the focus should be on the arrangement and the cut.
Khanijo’s clothes are air-conditioned and accept attitude. Alike admitting the clothes were flowy, the curve were crisp. I fell in adulation with the pants he makes… chic and stylish
You accept three altered curve beneath your label…
Gaurav Khanijo: Back I started accomplishing menswear, I started with mostly Indian clothing. Men like arcade back they accept a bells in the family, that’s back they will get their suits, bandhgalas and kurtas. Now I accept burst the cast into three curve — Khanijo Lab, area I do all my beginning stuff; Khanijo Soul is an easy, breathable band with a lot of khadis and linen; and Route is our Indian-wear. I abhorrence Indian abrasion and Western abrasion as agreement as they are actual all-encompassing but Route is the festive, acceptable accouterment that we like in India.
How arduous is it to be a menswear designer?
Gaurav Khanijo: Educating our audience on what they are wearing, like the t their clothes are fabricated of and added details, is necessary. For best men, it is, ‘Oh wow, this is a abundant jacket. Let’s buy it.’
What do you anticipate about the boilerplate Indian man’s appetence for fashion?
Gaurav Khanijo: Indian men are affecting and don’t apperceive how to dress! The allotment of men who apperceive what they are cutting is actual baby but it will abound as the adolescence is the aing step. Men now apperceive they accept to attending acceptable and that they accept options. Women brainwash themselves in agreement of appearance because they adulation clothes. Men don’t absolutely care. They will abrasion that aforementioned shirt alert a anniversary and don’t appetite to bandy their suits. If the fit changes or, say, the wearer becomes thinner or fatter — men don’t care. Men don’t boutique too abundant but back they do, they about don’t apperception spending.
I feel men alpha compassionate appearance by the time they ability their backward 30s and aboriginal 40s, or the men who biking accept the charge for a able clothing and jacket. So men with acknowledgment realise the charge for able clothes. I absolutely like those guys who appetite a accurate colour and fit. So abounding guys leave it to their mothers and girlfriends to boutique for them.
What are the things that men go amiss with?
Gaurav Khanijo: I anticipate men charge to try the clothes afore buying. Back they aces up a garment, they don’t like to try as they’re so lazy. If I get somebody to my arrest or abundance and they are belief their options, I assert on them aggravating out things. If a man wants a new brace of trousers, they charge to apperceive what breadth they charge to wear, their size. If they’re 38, they charge to abrasion 38 but if they like apart clothes, they should buy 40 and not 42. Either they will go all billowing or too skinny. They charge to accept their anatomy blazon and so they charge to try added clothes.
Who are the celebrities who are accepting their appearance right?
Gaurav Khanijo: Arjun Kapoor, Ranveer Singh, Sidharth Malhotra, Farhan Akhtar, Irrfan Khan, Ayushmann Khurrana and Rajkummar Rao accept been cutting us and are bodies who are acquainted of their style. Irrfan knows his clothes, loves his linen and prioritises comfort. Jim (Sarbh) knows what he wants. This lot has impacted the alteration face of fashion.
Also, acknowledgment to amusing media, men do see who is cutting what and what their options are. There’s still alienation in analysis but what they accept to realise is that attractive acceptable makes you feel good. Kurta and sneakers is a appearance — you don’t accept to chase it but it’s one of the means of accomplishing it.
Location: Swabhumi, Calcutta
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