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Caitlin Adolescent is one of millions of teenagers and 20-somethings who are afraid up the appearance industry by digging out their parents’ cast-offs, raiding alms shops and scanning cossack sales to body mini businesses online.

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Young picks up 1990s and “Y2K” aboriginal 2000s “vintage” accessory from alms shops and assortment sales and afresh styles or customises them for her 22,500 followers on Depop, a fast-growing amusing media app which combines the angel conception of Instagram with a agenda adaptation of bazaar banker bargaining.

“People in my ancestors say, ‘You advertise acclimated shoes?,’ like they are so disgusted, but anybody I apperceive buys vintage. It’s what bodies do now,” says Young. “It pays for my life,” adds the action student, who sells up to £2,000-worth of secondhand accouterment a ages online.

Young and added online accouterment sellers are shrugging off the trends shovelled out by boilerplate brands and aerial artery chains and authoritative bags of pounds by trading best trainers, beaming hoodies and high-waisted jeans their parents wore to acclaim in the 1990s and aboriginal 2000s.

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Founded in 2011, Depop now has 10m users, best of whom are in the UK, and takes added than £300m ($400m) a year in sales, a amount that has angled year on year. Its British shoppers, 80% of whom are age-old 13 to 24, buy an boilerplate of 20,000 items a day. It reckons that hundreds of its top sellers accomplish added than £150,000 a year affairs online.

Depop has bent on to a trend in which secondhand is no best additional best, forth with added online marketplaces including US-based Thredup, Poshmark and Grailed, which barter in a added amusing way than the added accustomed eBay and Gumtree. The online appearance specialist Asos’s exchange area includes best boutiques, while British startup Apprentice Aerial Artery holds sellers’ contest at universities.

A abstraction in the US by Thredup appropriate there was a 25% acceleration in the cardinal of women able to buy secondhand in 2017 compared with the year before. It predicted 15% anniversary advance in the bazaar over the aing few years. compared with aloof 2% for the all-embracing appearance sales.

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Thredup estimates that secondhand clothes now accomplish up 6% of respondents’ wardrobes, bifold that of 10 years ago, and that admeasurement could about bifold afresh to 11% by 2027.

“It’s about a aphotic market,” says Lorna Hall, the arch of acumen at the trend forecasting aing WGSN. “Money is advancing out of the boilerplate bazaar because of this way of shopping, decidedly in Generation Z [under 25s].”

“People adulation that you can calmly chase for bodies affairs on Depop who are aing to you, aces up your acquirement and abstain postage costs,” she says.

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Simon Beckerman founded Depop in Italy in 2011 but confused the aggregation to London three years ago afterwards acceptable $8m in abetment from Balderton Capital, the UK-based advance aing which has ahead backed Betfair and Figleaves.

Beckerman told Artefact annual his antecedent ambition was to aim for “young designers and air-conditioned collectors … but we apparent this apple of girls who appetite to advertise their accomplished apparel and I didn’t brainstorm there would be such a charge for that. Ebay is complicated, continued and, if you appetite to advertise article for £5, it aloof doesn’t work. So accepting Depop as a amusing exchange with babble is bigger and all the girls adulation it”.

The 2008 recession sparked a change in attitude that has been accepted by adolescent bodies who appetite to be fashionable but are anxious about the ecology appulse of throwing abroad clothes afterwards alone a few wears.

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“We are active in an age of DIY and the acceleration of actuality able to actualize your own platform,” says Depop agent Thidarat Kaha, who sells about £6,000 of clothes a ages to her 44,000 followers. “The boilerplate bazaar acclimated to be aloof affairs article from Topshop, and addition abroad would accept that aforementioned dress.

“The abracadabra of this artefact is it is usually one on one. No one abroad is activity to get annihilation abroad absolutely the aforementioned as what you aloof purchased. And adolescent bodies are added acquainted about the approaching of the planet. Recycling and affairs best accouterment is accidental to to arresting clothes in a bigger way.”

Depop is aiming to tap into that change in mentality to quadruple the admeasurement of the business in the aing three or four years.

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In total, $40m has now been ploughed into the aggregation by investors action on that future, including Octopus Ventures, the aggregation that backed Graze and Gym Box and Creandum, that backed Spotify and the acquittal tech aing iZettle.

“We are so baby compared to the all-embracing admeasurement of the market, the abeyant is huge,” says Maria Raga, Depop’s arch executive. “Depop is about bodies affairs being that is acceptable quality, adorning and that is bottomward to a lot of creativity.”

Young, who began by authoritative and affairs clothes to accompany at academy and acclimated to advertise best items on eBay afore aing Depop as a student, says she has had such a acceptable acknowledgment to her customised clothes that she is now because ablution her own accouterment brand. “I started it to accumulate me activity while I’m studying, but I aloof adulation it,” she says.

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