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Q I’ve consistently been told that men should not abrasion amber shoes with a dejected or a atramentous suit, that you should abrasion alone atramentous shoes. Yet I see a lot of guys cutting amber shoes with them. Which is right?

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A I accord it a breach decision. My aboriginal acknowledgment is never abrasion amber shoes with a atramentous suit. But the acknowledgment to whether amber shoes can go with a dejected or gray clothing depends on a few elements — blush rules, break and personality.

COLOR RULES: The accustomed aphorism is there are alone three adequate men’s dress shoe colors: black, amber and a aberration of amber alleged cordovan. Cordovan has a adumbration of red in it, but is not as red as burgundy.

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A broadly accustomed aspect of bathrobe able-bodied is repeating colors in at atomic two items in your combination. Traditionally, atramentous shoes go with clothes in the gray/black and in the dejected blush families; amber shoes go with clothes in the amber family.

These are your safest, best adapted choices, affirmed to be correct. This opens the aperture to why black, rather than navy, shoes go with clothes in the dejected family. The honest acknowledgment comes beneath that aberrant class of some things are accurate aloof because they are and with no analytic explanation. The acknowledgment veers from the accustomed blush allocation rules: absolutely simply, no well-dressed man anytime wears dress shoes in any adumbration of blue. (Apologies to Elvis.) Another accessible acumen may aloof be that fleet dejected is “nearly black.” A accepted catechism is, “What blush shoes do I abrasion with the weekend mix of fleet blazer and biscuit trousers?” Cordovan is the answer.

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DRESSING FOR THE OCCASION: For all important events, it is added able and added academic to abrasion atramentous shoes with your fleet or gray apparel than any artistic variation. The best business admonition is never, ever, go to a job account cutting annihilation added than a brace of atramentous shoes with a fleet or gray suit, and a white or actual ablaze dejected shirt. No amount how abundant you may anticipate of yourself as an adroit dresser, able accoutrements should be added of a constant “uniform” rather than an announcement of your personality. Getting the job and bulging that you are a aggregation amateur are your actual goals, not impressing the accuser with your camp individuality.

Besides analogous and repeating colors, shoe blush best is additionally about acclimation the amount of breeding or academism of your aggregate with the accident you are accessory (which explains why amber shoes are abundant added frequently beat than atramentous with accidental weekend clothes).

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THE PERSONALITY OF THE WEARER: If you see a guy who’s not a decidedly abundant chiffonier cutting amber shoes with a dejected suit, best generally it’s because he does not apperceive abundant about bathrobe and what goes with what. But, occasionally, you will see a absolutely knowledgeable, aciculate chiffonier cutting awful able amber dress shoes with a gray or dejected suit.

For some reason, it is anon credible that he called them on purpose. The man who advisedly pairs a amber shoe with a gray flannel or a fleet clothing displays his adeptness to use blush with sophistication. The abrupt best contrasts beautifully and looks great. Even so, accumulate in apperception that this is added of a artistic way of dressing, best aloof for the assured guy and the amusing accident he is branch to.

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The acceptable account is if you are cerebration this abundant about it, you apparently are authoritative astute choices. This is abnormally accurate if you chase my academician advice!

Please accelerate your questions on men’s dress and admonishment to MALE CALL:

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Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

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