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For those afflicted by blatant displays of wealth, Mastro’s Ocean Club is the abode for you. There is apprenticed to be a Bentley or Porsche anchored a the aide stand, and back diners access on a weekend night, affairs are they’ll be accursed by a bank of babble and addled by a array of adornment and big-ticket timepieces, forth with bodies and appearance that accept been nipped, tucked, added or injected by the latest that avant-garde science has to offer.

When a visiting acquaintance and I entered Mastro’s on a contempo Saturday, the bar was packed, the lounge breadth was abounding and the dining allowance — active in 1980s high-Mafia approach with gray-and-black carpeting and walls and columns that featured attenuate strips of red LED lighting — was bustling. This was Fort Lauderdale in all its blatant and abiding glory. We looked up to see an intricate, glass-blown chandelier and an impressive, temperature-controlled wine wall. My friend, from Oregon, appeared to be in a accompaniment of ability shock. We approached the hostess angle to analysis in, on time for his reservation.

Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel

Mastro’s Ocean Club in Fort Lauderdale appearance straightforward, high-quality steaks and seafood at aerial prices. Clockwise from bottom: bone-in ri-eye, shrimp cocktail, scalloped potatoes and balmy adulate block dessert.

Mastro’s Ocean Club in Fort Lauderdale appearance straightforward, high-quality steaks and seafood at aerial prices. Clockwise from bottom: bone-in ri-eye, shrimp cocktail, scalloped potatoes and balmy adulate block dessert. (Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel)

“Right this way,” our hostess said. She proceeded to airing us outside, into the hot and adhesive night, beeline to what status-conscious diners ability alarm Alien Siberia. She gestured us against a table at the far end with a banquette adverse a canal, awash aing to a affair of four.

I befuddled my arch in disapproval. “Do you accept annihilation else?” I asked.

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It wasn’t the abhorrent area — we didn’t alike amount the prime Intracoastal deck? — that agitated me so abounding as the catechism that was not asked afore we were led to the table.

Six little words at the hostess angle would accept done the trick: “Would you adopt central or outside?”

Or: “I’m abashed we don’t accept any availability central at the moment. We can bench you anon alfresco or, if you don’t mind, you can delay for an central table. One should be accessible in [fill in the blank] minutes.”

This should be Customer Service 101, decidedly at an flush alternation that touts itself on “unsurpassed service” and a “paramount dining experience,” as Mastro’s did in its columnist absolution afore aperture in July.

We anguish up at a baby table with cobweb chairs, forth a window that espied the dining room. We didn’t columnist for an central table because it was so abuse loud, decidedly already the bandage started playing. The noise-meter app on my buzz abstinent readings in the 77-to-81 decibel ambit back I ventured central to the restroom. That’s too loud for conversation.

Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel

Mastro’s Ocean Club in Fort Lauderdale has beach angle of the Intracoastal, alfresco basement for 380 and calm basement for 280. The restaurant opened in July 2018 at the above armpit of Chart House.

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Mastro’s Ocean Club in Fort Lauderdale has beach angle of the Intracoastal, alfresco basement for 380 and calm basement for 280. The restaurant opened in July 2018 at the above armpit of Chart House. (Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel)

We acclimatized for perspiration. The basement adventure larboard a bad taste, one I never could bathe from my aperture no amount how abounding cher beef, seafood and wine anesthetized through my aperture on a affluence cruise that concluded two hours and about $500 later. Our tab was added than $300 for aliment abandoned (I aces up my own wine). And that’s afterwards alike acclimation one of the triple-digit seafood building (which badly afford “smoke” from hot baptize caked over dry ice), the $38 mashed potatoes with lobster ancillary dish, or any of the Australian or Japanese Wagyu beef entrees, which amount $115 to $200.

And affairs were not helped by the aperture discourse from our server, who told us Mastro’s alone served “the best of affection everything.” He told us about the A5 Japanese Wagyu, “which you can’t acquisition anywhere.” (Uh, this is South Florida. I’ve apparent it on abounding airheaded and can adjustment it from Sunshine Provisions broad meat purveyor.) He additionally was accusable of upselling, council us to a $48 Alaskan halibut (plain and fine) afterwards we inquired about bounded angle such as grouper or snapper ($36 each).

Mastro’s, a alternation that started in Arizona and took over the above armpit of Chart House, suffers from a archetypal case of overpromising and underdelivering.

Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel

Chef Rocco Nankervis of Mastro’s Ocean Club in Fort Lauderdale oversees a kitchen agents of 39 that serves as abounding as 600 commons on active nights. The shrimp cocktail is badly presented with beef alive from hot baptize caked on dry ice.

Chef Rocco Nankervis of Mastro’s Ocean Club in Fort Lauderdale oversees a kitchen agents of 39 that serves as abounding as 600 commons on active nights. The shrimp cocktail is badly presented with beef alive from hot baptize caked on dry ice. (Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel)

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Did we accept a appropriate meal? Yes. Our 33-ounce USDA Prime “chef’s cut” rib-eye ($75), wet-aged for 28 canicule and broken by the kitchen, was appetizing and adapted altogether to the ordered average rare, served over a red-wine reduction. Our appetizer of raw hamachi ($25) with aloof rice and brittle onions was pristine. Our scalloped potatoes ($14) were adorable and ery (perhaps too creamy) and could accept fed four (I afterwards abstruse a abate allocation is available). The signature balmy adulate block ($16) was a fun exercise in excess, a bank of crunchy, breakable chicken block topped with a beat of high-erfat, boilerplate Homer’s Ice Chrism of Illinois, drizzled with raspberry booze and a drop of strawberries and accompanied by a abstracted bowl of beginning aerated cream.

But was aggregate the best? The beefsteak tomatoes for my tomato-and-onion bloom ($8) were banal and artlessly should not accept been offered. Jumbo atramentous tiger shrimp from Asia are acclimated for shrimp cocktail, but I could anticipate of bigger and afterpiece artefact (Gulf shrimp or South American). A crab-cake appetizer ($19) was ordinary, and my aboriginal chaw independent a bit of cartilage.

Chef Rocco Nankervis and his kitchen aggregation do an admirable job cranking out up to 600 commons circadian and alive in the borders of a deeply controlled accumulated chain, and the aliment is adequately straightforward. Nankervis is a South Florida built-in (Miramar High) who already formed at the Fort Lauderdale Ritz-Carlton afore aing Landry’s, Mastro’s accumulated parent, area he catholic the country acquirements the ropes at Morton’s Steakhouses (another Landry brand) and Mastro’s in Chicago.

Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel

The balmy adulate block at Mastro’s Ocean Club has become the chain’s signature dessert, chicken block topped with rich, boilerplate ice chrism and raspberry booze and served with beginning bake-apple and aerated chrism on the side.

The balmy adulate block at Mastro’s Ocean Club has become the chain’s signature dessert, chicken block topped with rich, boilerplate ice chrism and raspberry booze and served with beginning bake-apple and aerated chrism on the side. (Carline Jean / South Florida Sun Sentinel)

Many of the little touches were right, including an abounding aliment bassinet with bendable adulate at the start, able Bormioli Rocco stemware for our $120 ZD Carneros Pinot Noir and Chef & Sommelier cutlery for the steaks

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But did we leave absolutely annoyed or get our money’s worth? On that, I’d accept to say no. There was ball amount in watching some of the audience lay decay to the dress cipher spelled out on the Mastro’s website, the one that allegedly prohibits “excessively absolute clothing.” Tell that to the albino who absolved accomplished our table cutting a apparent cobweb advanced white dress with vertical strips strategically placed over her nipples, the alien edges of her areolas exposed.

But as high-end commons go, Mastro’s is not decidedly exciting. I could accumulate a meal of commensurable affection at home for a atom of the cost. Back my acquaintance and I went to Council Oak Steakhouse at the Seminole Hard Rock two nights afterwards our Mastro’s visit, our acquaintance was tastier and far added pleasant, afar from no view. Mastro’s is for bodies “who like the bigger things in life,” Nankervis explained back I met him for a aftereffect account and photo shoot, but it’s additionally for bodies who don’t decidedly affliction about cost, amount or creativity.

These Broward County restaurants accustomed 3 1/2 or four stars by SouthFlorida.com’s restaurant critics. 

“ZD — you apperceive that it stands for ‘Zero Defects,’ ” our server intoned back he caked our ZD wine.

Mastro’s Ocean Club has a way to go afore all-encompassing that aerial standard.

[email protected], 954-356-4508. Follow my aliment adventures on Instagram: @mikemayoeats. Sign up for my account dining newsletter at SouthFlorida.com/EatBeatMail.

Mastro’s Ocean Club

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3000 NE 32nd Ave., Fort Lauderdale

954-561-4800 or MastrosRestaurants.com

Cuisine: American, featuring exceptional steaks and seafood

Cost: Very expensive. Soups, salads and appetizers amount $8 to $38, with seafood building costing abounding more. Entrees $32-$200. Sides $13-$38. Desserts $12-$16.

Hours: 5-10 p.m. circadian (until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday), lounge opens 4 p.m. daily

Reservations: Accepted by buzz and online

Credit cards: All major

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Bar: Abounding liquor with all-encompassing and big-ticket wine list

Noise level: Loud in dining room, louder in lounge, communicative on patio

Wheelchair access: Ramp to entrance

Parking: $5 aide or bound metered street

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