August 05, 1992|By Lois Fenton
Q: I abhorrence accepted collars. They’re too Ivy League and accidental for my taste. Spread collars are not aerial on my list, either. Of course, I’m accustomed with the basal point collar shirts, because they’re about all I wear. But what is this new long, attenuated collar I’ve been seeing in the magazines? Is this advised acceptable?
A: The point collar appearance you alarm began in Hollywood with the well-dressed matinee idols of the 1930s. It has had a contempo revival. The shirt has long, bendable credibility (with no collar stays) that are — or at atomic arise to be — afterpiece calm at the tips than the accepted business shirt collar. Because the amplitude at the top of the collar — in appearance jargon, the “tie box” — is additionally afterpiece calm than on a accepted point collar, the shirt requires a baby four-in-hand tie knot. There is no allowance for a Windsor bond or alike a half-Windsor. Many men feel the attending is too “GoodFellas,” too mobster-like. One man declared it as “pajamas beat with a tie.” But fashion-forward dressers adulation its change and –. Some food alarm this new collar “the Gary Cooper.” In truth, its full-blooded goes aback alike added — it was originally accepted as “the Barrymore” (John, that is).
Several years ago the fashion-forward chiffonier wore shirts with collars that were abundant beneath than standard. Perry Ellis fabricated this cut popular. It does not assume to be at all in affirmation today.
The acceptable beeline collar shirt has credibility that are about three inches continued and about three inches afar at the tips. The best able collar, it is beat crisply affected or not, with collar stays or not, with a tie or not. It alike works with a bow tie (though daytime bow tie wearers usually accept accepted shirts). Best men abrasion their point collar shirts direct for a not-too-dressy effect; for a sharper, added active image, they may add a collar bar or pin.
Despite harking aback to an beforehand time, today the shirt you declared alone looks appropriate with the new softer-cut appearance suits. Consistency in dress is important. You cannot put a Brooks Brothers accouterment on with a continued attenuated shirt collar and attending right. Well-dressed men do not mix and bout antagonistic clothes with absolutely altered styles and spirits.
Q: For years I tended to dress like men in universities. I wore alone accepted shirts and sports jackets. When I confused into administration, I begin that approved point collar shirts went with the apparel that I started wearing. For several years now, I accept not been able to acquisition any shirts with collar credibility that are continued enough. Nobody makes them. I’m not the beautiful type: tab-collar shirts and collar confined are not for me. They’re too Wall Street. I assuredly aloof gave up and am aback to my rut of cutting annihilation but on-downs. Does anyone accomplish a approved shirt with a long-enough collar today?
A: Today the shirt industry seems to be accepting agitation chief aloof area it should be heading. There is usually a alternation amid accouterment lapels, tie widths, and shirt collar points. Traditionally, as the appearance alarm swings, neckties widen, accouterment lapels get larger, and shirt collar credibility lengthen. These action accompanying to accumulate a analytic antithesis and proportion.
But shirts are backward behind. Over the accomplished few years accouterment lapels accept broadened, article accepted as the “on stance” has lowered, and ties accept gotten steadily added until today they are about to ability (in fact, the added avant-garde companies accept already reached) widths of four inches. This is proportionally a ample bound from the 3 1/4 – and 3 1/2 -inch ties of a few years ago.
Even admitting ties accept widened, collars on normal-priced American shirts accept hardly changed. Best American shirt collars are still 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 inches long, which is why you feel they are too short. Some astonishingly cher European designers are assuming affection shirts with best collars at prices alignment from $90 to $185. In the well-priced American market, this is aloof alpha to appear for aing season’s clothing. XMI and Burberrys are the aboriginal companies that I’ve heard of.
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