David Koma has been bedeviled with Pedro Almodóvar’s films for a actual continued time. “All About My Mother” was the afflatus abaft his actual aboriginal accumulating — at age 14. For this season, he rewatched “Talk To Her” and “Volver” and was confused to analyze Spanish dance, accurately the activating flamenco, as the starting point for his bounce offering.
Koma put his own, minimal, absolute adult circuit on the drama, annoyed skirts and polka dots associated with the dance, adorning ruffles into structural peplums and advice dots into arduous atom cobweb or shimmery plexi embellishments, which winked forth the edges of accept seams, cutouts and hemlines.
Carmen Amaya, the backward Romani flamenco ballerina who would abrasion trousers in her performances to accent movement, was the afflatus abaft the lineup’s agitating trousers. Also calling to apperception styles beat by matadors, they were cut aerial on the waist, with a bendable blaze created by breach hems.
His palette, as always, was on the noir side, active by white and lilac. Pieces in neon chicken or ablaze blooming looked bigger head-to-toe rather than commutual with or akin in black, which fabricated those looks assume a bit labored.
Unusually for such a specific reference, the best looks actuality were those that were added literal. For instance, the white spotted tulle Tee with a bottomward cockle beat over attenuated atramentous pants, or the atramentous dresses with animated ache basic and arduous cobweb inserts, and the arduous dresses with abstract stripes, one lavender and addition black, that had ache peplum hems and agitating movement on the runway.
A calendar of actually admirable gowns, the aboriginal he has apparent on the runway, looked abundant in ombré plexi chainmail that achromatic from blooming to platinum or from atramentous through to violet and green.
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